Sifnos

A proper local favourite on a lovely Apollonia street — Greek music, and plates of meze landing non-stop.

The safest, most well-rounded base on Sifnos — central, well connected, and the best of the island’s evening atmosphere.

Traditional cooking at Kato Petali, just east of Apollonia. Bean stew is what we had it down for.

A terrace next to the church in Apollonia, with soft music and the clatter of plates.

On our Apollonia list for dinner.

Another Apollonia option we had saved.

The fish market near Apollonia — useful if you are self-catering.

Good coffee and big croissants in Apollonia.

The Apollonia bar that gets going after midnight.

A bar in the middle of Apollonia, on our list for a drink.

Looked good for cocktails in Apollonia.

A shop in Apollonia we had marked on the map.

A Mycenaean hilltop acropolis between Apollonia and the south coast, with views over most of the island.

The monastery at the highest point of Sifnos, reached on trail 6B.

A guesthouse in the hills south of Apollonia, saved on our map while we were planning.

A place to stay in Apollonia, saved on our map on a personal recommendation.

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The island’s busiest central hub and the heart of its hiking network — elegant houses, charming alleyways, still relaxed.

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Ten waymarked routes and over 100km of restored footpaths — one of the most extensive trail networks in the Aegean.

A family-run place in Artemonas with an outdoor terrace against a whitewashed wall — often has musicians on.

A rotisserie on the Artemonas road that we walked past and noted down.

A gorgeous outdoor setting by the sea at Poulati, on the cliff road east of Artemonas.

The sweet shop in Artemonas, and where to go for bourekia.

A pottery workshop in Artemonas.

A couple-run hotel above the sea at Poulati, with a spa and a restaurant.

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Honestly, just book it — one of the best meals we have ever had, in probably the most stunning dinner setting on the island.

Easily one of the most beautiful and atmospheric places on the island — a former capital perched on a cliff edge.

The small white church on a rocky outcrop below Kastro — one of the most iconic views on the island.

One of two Kastro spots we would point you to for a stunning evening drink up on the cliff edge.

A wine bar in Kastro, and the other spot we would send you to for a drink with the sunset on the walls.

A restaurant up in Kastro, saved for a night in the old capital.

A dessert place in Kastro, saved for after dinner.

The taverna you want after a day at the beach — easy, satisfying, full of locals, right by the water in Kamares.

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The main port village and where you land if you arrive by ferry — more open and accessible than the hilltop villages.

A long sandy stretch by the port with everything close by — beautiful, but more built up than the rest.

Giannis Apostolidis, a third-generation Sifnian potter, with a workshop in the hills near Kamares.

On our list as one of the best sunset dinners in Kamares. Part of a hotel on the edge of the port.

A Kamares taverna that looked busy and good every time we passed.

On the Kamares waterfront, on our list for the port.

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A relaxed all-day spot on Faros beach where you can have a fancy cocktail and not feel out of place in flip-flops.

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Our favourite beach in the Faros area — quiet, tree-shaded and sandy underfoot, a short walk through the village.

One of the most important religious sites on Sifnos, on its own small peninsula joined to the island by a strip of rock.

A small bay with the Chrisopigi monastery framing one side of the view — a really picturesque, distinctly Greek setting.

The beach in Faros village itself — a little livelier than the rest, with restaurants along the waterfront.

A small, more secluded spot near Faros with trees for shade — pleasant, but it did not quite have the same charm for us.

Pelicanos’ oven-baked-goods sibling, right next door on Faros beach.

A friend rated this the best restaurant on the island. Above Fassolou, and expensive.

A lunch spot right by Apokofto beach, below the Chrisopigi monastery.

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Fresh seafood with a twist right on Platis Gialos beach — more wine bar than taverna, and we were seriously impressed.

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The largest and most developed beach on the island — the one to pick when you want everything close by.

We walked past this one at Platis Gialos and the menu looked good.

On the Platis Gialos strip, saved on our map.

Another Platis Gialos beachfront option we had marked.

A bakery on the Platis Gialos strip.

Specialty coffee on the Platis Gialos beachfront.

The roastery side of Way Cup, a few steps from the coffee shop.

A ceramics shop on the Platis Gialos beachfront — this is where our jug and bowl came from.

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Exactly what you want from a Greek seaside taverna — a table on the sand at Vathi, and a dip in the sea between courses.

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A wide, sheltered bay with calm shallow water — and a smaller cove at the far end that was our favourite part.

A beachside ceramics workshop near Vathi, in the part of the island richest in clay.

One of the handful of tavernas on the sand at Vathi, cooking from the owner’s kitchen garden and local boats.

Another of the Vathi beach tavernas on our list.

Gyros at Vathi — the quick, cheap option when you do not want a long lunch.

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Proper Greek home cooking above Vroulidia beach, and one of the highlights of our time on the island.

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One of our favourite beaches in Sifnos — small, sheltered and more hidden fishing village than typical beach.

A beach taverna in Cheronissos that feels like a real local gem — no menu online, no fuss, just simple good food.

A secluded, sheltered bay that feels far more remote than most of the island — and worth the steep road down.

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The best sunset spot we found on Sifnos, and quieter than the obvious ones — but you will need a car to get up there.

A small ceramics shop right next to Η Αμμουδιά in Cheronissos, run by one of the oldest ceramists on the island.

Mr Kostas Depastas, the oldest ceramist on the island, with his workshop in Cheronissos.

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A monastery on a viewpoint at the northernmost tip of the island, reached on a hike up from Cheronissos.

A ceramics workshop on the road north towards Cheronissos, which we drove past.

A sunset viewpoint in the hamlet of Troulaki, in the north of the island.