Copenhagen
We came to Copenhagen for the pastries and stayed for everything around them — the bikes, the harbour you can actually swim in, and a city that is small enough to cross on two wheels before breakfast. Six days in 2024, most of them spent cycling between bakeries, plunging into the harbour and drinking a great deal of very good coffee. It is a city that rewards slowing down, which the Danes have a word for.
Practical information for Copenhagen
Getting around
- Cycle, and nothing else: Copenhagen is one of the most cycle-friendly cities in the world, and getting on a bike is by far the best way to see it. Wide dedicated lanes, bike-specific traffic lights, cycle bridges — and it is flat. We hired bikes for our whole stay and never once needed the metro.
- Donkey Republic: A bike rental app that makes the whole thing painless — you unlock a bike with your phone and keep it for the day or, as we did, for the entire trip. Having our own bikes the whole time is what let us treat the far-flung bakeries as a morning ride rather than an expedition.
- The Harbour Circle: A signed route that loops right around the waterfront, past the modern architecture, the harbour baths and the quieter waterside corners. The single best orientation ride on a first day.
- Distances: The centre is genuinely walkable, but Juno is in Østerbro and Lille and La Banchina are out on Refshaleøen. On a bike those are fifteen or twenty minutes; on foot they are the whole morning.
Swimming and sauna
- You can swim in the harbour: Copenhagen spent decades cleaning up what used to be an industrial waterway, and the result is a city centre you can get into the water in. There are several harbour baths and designated swimming zones, and they are free and open to the public.
- Download the KBH Havn app: The official guide to where swimming is legal, with live water quality and safety information. It is the first thing to install when you arrive.
- Expect it to be cold: Danish water is chilly even in summer. Bring a towel, and a flask of something hot is not overdoing it. A morning plunge followed by coffee in the sun is the ritual worth copying.
- Stay in the marked areas: These are working waterways with canal boats on them. Swim where it says you can.
- Sauna: Wood-fired saunas alongside the water are a proper part of the culture. La Banchina takes bookings for theirs through their website and it goes quickly; CopenHot on Refshaleøen is the other option; the Nordhavn winter bathing club by Sandkaj is members-only.
- Which spot: Islands Brygge for the big, social, diving-platform version; Kalvebod Bølge across the water for something quieter, though it loses the evening sun; Sandkaj in Nordhavn for the architecture and the coffee next door; La Banchina if you want a sauna and a glass of wine attached.
Pastries and coffee
- What a Danish pastry actually is: They came from Vienna — Austrian bakers brought laminated dough to Denmark in the mid-19th century, which is why the Danish name for them is wienerbrød, Vienna bread. Layers of butter through yeast-leavened dough, and nothing like the sweeter, heavily iced "Danish" sold abroad.
- Bageri means bakery: Useful when you are reading shop fronts. And these are treats rather than an everyday staple for Danes, whatever your holiday schedule suggests.
- Go early: The good bakeries queue and the best items sell through. Juno has no indoor seating and a courtyard that fits very few people; Lille asks you to arrive early at weekends.
- Filter coffee only, in places: Both Juno and Lille serve filter and nothing else. If you want espresso with your pastry, plan the order of your morning accordingly.
- Cashless: Almost every café is card or phone only. Oat and almond milk are widely available.
- Seating is limited: Danish cafés are mostly small. Andersen & Maillard has real space; the Coffee Collective kiosk had none at all. Outdoor benches are normal, so a coffee to go and a park is a perfectly good plan.
- Learn to make them: Copenhagen Cooking Class near Nyhavn runs a Danish pastry workshop — three and a half hours, DKK 695 when we did it, and you take home what you made. There is a cinnamon bun class too.
Eating and booking
- Book Høst well ahead: It is the meal we would build a trip around, and it fills. Five courses came to about £100 a head with wine and supplements, which for the standard is remarkable value.
- Walk-ins only: La Banchina takes no reservations and fills up the moment the sun comes out, so go early. Atelier September does not take bookings either, and its kitchen shuts at 3pm.
- Closing days: Juno is closed Mondays, Lille is closed Mondays and Tuesdays, and Skt. Peders is closed Sundays. Two of those are on Refshaleøen and Østerbro respectively, so a wasted trip is a real one.
- The markets: Torvehallerne by Nørreport for smørrebrød, porridge and picnic supplies; Reffen out on Refshaleøen for outdoor street food on a warm evening. Reffen is seasonal, so check before cycling out.
Where to stay
- The short answer: Indre By or near the Lakes. That puts Torvehallerne on your doorstep, keeps the centre walkable, and turns the trips out to Juno in Østerbro or Lille on Refshaleøen into a scenic morning cycle rather than a journey.
- What we did: We stayed at Hotel Bella Grande on Vester Voldgade, which put Skt. Peders around the corner and Kalvebod Bølge five minutes away on a bike. Coffee to go from Restaurant Donna downstairs became the start of every day.
- If you are here for the bakeries: Hotel Kong Arthur is a three-minute walk from Torvehallerne. 25hours Indre By sits in the middle of everything and rents bikes. Coco Hotel in Vesterbro is the stylish option, further from the bakeries but surrounded by good local coffee.
- Østerbro: If being first in the queue at Juno matters to you, an Airbnb or guesthouse up there works — hotels are thin on the ground. For most people, staying central and cycling is the better trade.
Day trips
- Malmö: Thirty minutes on the train across the Øresund Bridge and you are in another country. It is not on this map because it is a different city in Sweden rather than a corner of Copenhagen, but it is the easiest day trip there is.
- Louisiana: The modern art museum at Humlebæk, about 35km up the coast, set in a sculpture park running down to the sea. Locals and travellers push it equally hard and the restaurant is said to be excellent. We missed it and regret it.
- North along the coast: The same railway carries on to Bellevue Beach at Klampenborg, the deer park at Jægersborg Dyrehave, Kronborg Castle at Helsingør and the beach at Hornbæk. One line, several very different days out.
Practical odds and ends
- Hygge: Pronounced hoo-guh, and not really translatable — cosiness, contentment and being present, usually with good food and people you like. It is why the cafés are lit the way they are, and why nobody is rushing you out of one.
- Drinking outdoors: Generally allowed, provided you are respectful about it — not on buses or trains, and not around children's play areas. It is what makes the Nyhavn kiosk trick work.
- The Bear tour: If you watched the Copenhagen episode: HART Bageri Holmen is where Marcus picks up pastries, the houseboat is on Frederiksholms Kanal by BLOX, the hot dog is Joan's Pølser at Kongens Nytorv, the chicken sandwich is Poulette, and the walk is through Kongens Have. Where he trains is never confirmed; NOMA and HART are both candidates.
- Design shopping: HAY House on Østergade is the flagship and the easy starting point. The better hour is Frama Studio Store, in a former pharmacy on Fredericiagade, with Apotek 57 attached for coffee afterwards.
Indre By · the old city 40 spots
Gråbrødretorv
A cobbled square in the old town, pinned on our map as a spot for outdoor drinks around a fire.
The Round Tower
A 17th-century observatory you climb by spiral ramp rather than stairs, with a view over the old rooftops.
The King's Garden
Kongens Have, the park around Rosenborg — and the walk that ends the Bear tour of the city.
A stop on the Bear tourMagstræde
One of the oldest streets in the city, and about ninety seconds well spent on the way somewhere else.
Frederiksholms Kanal
The canal by BLOX where Marcus's houseboat is moored in The Bear. Pretty regardless of whether you have seen it.
A stop on the Bear tour · By BLOXBotanical Garden
Glasshouses and tropical planting in the middle of the city. On our list for next time.
One of the things we missed
2 photographsLa CabraWe have been here ourselves
HighlightThe Aarhus roaster's Copenhagen room, in the fashion district — minimalist, precise, and with baked goods worth staying for.
Møntergade 3A · Mon–Fri 8am–6pm, Sat–Sun 9am–5pm · Limited seating
3 photographsSonnyWe have been here ourselves
Organic brunch and coffee from La Cabra and KOPPI. Our last coffee stop of the trip, and a good one to end on.
Rådhusstræde 5 · Mon–Fri 7.30am–6.30pm, Sat 9am–6.30pm, Sun 9am–5pmDemocratic CoffeeWe have been here ourselves
Inside the main library, hence the name. Come for the coffee, queue for the almond croissant.
Krystalgade 15 · Mon–Fri 7am–5pm, Sat–Sun 9am–4pm
Coffee Collective · TelefonkioskenWe have been here ourselves
Their smallest shop, in a converted telephone booth on Nørre Voldgade. Google now lists it as permanently closed.
Listed by Google as permanently closed — worth checking before you walk over · Their other locations are openCoffee Collective · Bernikows Gade
The central Coffee Collective, a short walk from Strøget, with a bakery attached. Saved on our map as the easy one to reach from the middle of town.
Original Coffee · Illum rooftopWe have been here ourselves
On the top floor of the Illum department store, next to HAY, with a balcony over the shopping streets. A proper sun trap.
4th floor of Illum, Østergade 52 · Outdoor balcony · Laptop-friendlyApril Coffee Store & Showroom
April's Pilestræde store and showroom, saved on our map. Google now lists it as permanently closed.
Listed by Google as permanently closed
Skt. Peders BageriWe have been here ourselves
HighlightDenmark's oldest bakery, from 1652. Less refined than the new guard, and completely charming for it.
Sankt Peders Stræde 29 · Mon–Fri 7.30am–5pm, Sat 8am–4pm · Closed SundayBUKA
On our bakery shortlist rather than in our top four: local flour, organic sourdough and rye, and a pistachio croissant people go for.
Open daily · Several locations across the city
Atelier SeptemberWe have been here ourselves
HighlightThe whipped butter tower, and the best version of the pared-back Danish breakfast plate we ate.
No reservations · Kitchen closes 3pmLido
A corner breakfast café on Vester Voldgade with outdoor seating. We cycled past it repeatedly and never went in.
Corner site with outdoor seating
4 photographsHøstWe have been here ourselves
HighlightNordic cooking in a rustic cellar room, and one of the best-value serious meals we have had anywhere. Five courses, about £100 a head with wine.
Book well in advance · Five-course set menu · Ask for a table downstairsTorvehallerneWe have been here ourselves
HighlightThe glass food halls by Nørreport — smørrebrød, porridge, coffee, produce. The most efficient good lunch in the city.
By Nørreport station · Hallernes Smørrebrød and the GRØD stand are both insideGRØD · Torvehallerne
The porridge specialists' stand inside Torvehallerne. Sweet and savoury, plus risotto and açai.
Inside Torvehallerne · Several other locations across the cityKompa'9
A smørrebrød restaurant on Kompagnistræde, saved on our map while we were working out where to eat open sandwiches.
Restaurant Pilekælderen
A traditional open-sandwich cellar on Pilestræde, saved on a friend's recommendation.
Gasoline Grill · Niels Hemmingsens Gade
The city-centre Gasoline Grill, a couple of streets from Strøget.
DØP · Købmagergade
The organic hot dog stand at the foot of the Round Tower — the good version of the Danish street classic.
DØP · Amagertorv
The second DØP stand, on Amagertorv in the middle of the shopping streets.
Slurp Ramen Joint
A ramen shop on Nansensgade, saved on our map.
Selma
A modern smørrebrød restaurant on Rømersgade, saved on our map.
Vækst
A greenhouse-style dining room on Sankt Peders Stræde, saved on our map.
Hotel Bella GrandeWe have been here ourselves
Where we stayed. Central, on Vester Voldgade, with Restaurant Donna downstairs for the coffee you get ready on.
Restaurant Donna is downstairs · Five minutes by bike from Kalvebod BølgeManon Les Suites
The hotel with the jungle-planted indoor pool, by the Lakes. Saved on our map.
Hotel Kong Arthur
Our pick for rolling out of bed into breakfast: three minutes from Torvehallerne, by the Lakes.
Three minutes from Torvehallerne25hours Hotel Indre By
For café-hopping: in the middle of the old city, a short walk from Skt. Peders and Coffee Collective, with bikes to rent.
Bikes available to rentApéro
A wine bar on Gammel Mønt, saved on our map.
Bar'VinWe have been here ourselves
The wine bar we ended up in on our first night, on Skindergade in the middle of town.
Where we spent our first evening in the cityRuby
One of the city's best-known cocktail bars, in a townhouse on Nybrogade. Saved on our map, not yet visited.
Ved Stranden 10
A natural wine bar on the canal, recommended to us twice by different people. You can sit outside along the water.
Canal-side seatingLa Fontaine
A long-running jazz bar on Kompagnistræde with open-mic nights, saved on our map.
YŌNOBI
A ceramics studio and coffee shop on Nybrogade running pottery classes, saved on our map.
Rosenborg Castle
The Renaissance castle in Kongens Have that holds the Danish crown jewels. One we did not prioritise this trip.
One of the things we missedHAY House
The flagship, above Amagertorv — colourful contemporary furniture and the small everyday objects that travel home more easily.
Same floor as the Original Coffee rooftopNyhavn & Kongens Nytorv 8 spots
NyhavnWe have been here ourselves
HighlightThe postcard canal, and unavoidable. Worth doing — but not from the restaurant terraces, which is where the money goes.
Sit on the quayside rather than at a terrace table · The kiosk on Lille Strandstræde is two minutes awayKongens Nytorv
The big square at the top of Nyhavn, and the hinge between the shopping streets and the water.
Pølsevognen · Kongens Nytorv
The hot dog cart on Kongens Nytorv — Joan's Pølser, and a stop on the Bear tour of the city.
A stop on the Bear tourLocale 21
An Italian on Ny Østergade, saved on our map.
Punk Royale
A deliberately chaotic tasting-menu restaurant, recommended to us as an experience rather than a quiet dinner.
Apollo Bar
A restaurant and bar at the top of Nyhavn that spills out into the courtyard of the Charlottenborg art gallery. Two friends told us to go; we still have not.
Courtyard seating behind CharlottenborgTurs KioskWe have been here ourselves
The kiosk on Lille Strandstræde where you buy the wine and the plastic cups before sitting down at Nyhavn.
Two minutes from the Nyhavn quayside
2 photographsCopenhagen Cooking ClassWe have been here ourselves
HighlightWhere Alice learned to laminate. Three and a half hours of Danish pastry, near Nyhavn, and the best thing we brought home.
Danish pastry class was 3.5 hours, DKK 695 · Book aheadFrederiksstaden & the harbourfront 9 spots
The Little Mermaid
Small, and usually surrounded. Our honest advice is to cycle past, take the photograph and carry on.
On the harbour cycle route · We did not make a special tripOriginal Coffee · Bredgade
The Bredgade branch, saved on our map as the laptop-friendly one with good pastries.
Laptop-friendly, and our note singles out the pastriesApotek 57We have been here ourselves
A small walk-in café inside a former pharmacy, attached to the Frama design store. The two together make one very good hour.
Fredericiagade 57 · Mon–Fri 8am–4pm, Sat–Sun 9am–4pm · Walk-in onlyDiamond Rice
A Japanese place on Bredgade. Our note says it was full of Japanese diners, which is usually the signal you want.
Gasoline Grill · Landgreven
The original of Copenhagen's best-known burger operation, run out of a working petrol station.
The petrol-station site · They sell out and close earlySeaside Toldboden
A cluster of restaurants in the old customs house by the water at Nordre Toldbod, saved as an area to explore.
Bottega Barlie
A wine stop with outdoor seating a few doors from Atelier September and Frama, saved on our map for exactly that reason.
Outdoor seating · Walking distance from Atelier September and FramaMACA Museum
A contemporary art museum on Toldbodgade, pinned while there was a Banksy exhibition on.
Frama Studio StoreWe have been here ourselves
HighlightOur favourite of the design shops — minimalist pieces in an old pharmacy, with Apotek 57 next door.
Same building as Apotek 57Christianshavn & Holmen 11 spots
Freetown ChristianiaWe have been here ourselves
HighlightThe self-governing quarter founded by squatters in 1971. Quieter than it was, and still unlike anywhere else in the city.
Photography is restricted in parts of the area — look for the signsChurch of Our Saviour
The black-and-gold spire you climb on the outside, by an external spiral staircase. Pinned for exactly that reason.
The staircase to the top runs around the outside of the spire
3 photographsHART Bageri · HolmenWe have been here ourselves
HighlightRichard Hart's bakery, and the location from The Bear. The cardamom croissant is the one to order.
Galionsvej 41, Holmen · Open daily 7.30am–6pm · The Bear locationLagkagehuset · Torvegade
The original Lagkagehuset, which is the same company that trades as Ole & Steen abroad.
GRØD · Christianshavn
The Prinsessegade branch of the porridge specialists, a few minutes from Christiania.
Barr
Northern European cooking on the water at Strandgade. Our note says it is particularly good after dark.
Our note says: the pancakes with blueberries and ice cream, and the baked codBroens Gadekøkken
The outdoor street-food market at the foot of the Inderhavnsbro, looking back at Nyhavn.
Hija de Sanchez · Broens Gadekøkken
The taqueria stall at Broens, from a former NOMA pastry chef. Saved on our map.
POPL Burger
NOMA's burger spin-off on Strandgade, saved on our map.
Kadeau
Bornholm-rooted fine dining on Wildersgade. Saved on our map for a return trip.
Ferm Living
The Danish interiors brand's showroom on Holmen, saved on our map alongside the other design stops.
Refshaleøen 6 spots
CopenHot
Wood-fired hot tubs and saunas on the Refshaleøen waterfront, saved on our map.
3 photographsLille BakeryWe have been here ourselves
HighlightOne of our four favourite bakeries — the cinnamon bun, a seasonal kitchen, and a sun trap under the trees.
Wed–Sun 8am–5pm, closed Mon and Tue · Filter coffee only · Get there early at weekends
4 photographsLa BanchinaWe have been here ourselves
HighlightFourteen seats, a wood-fired sauna and a ladder into the harbour. If the sun is out you can lose a whole day here — we did.
Walk-in only, so arrive early on sunny days · Book the sauna ahead on their website · No showers, but a changing room and a hose · Bring a towel and slippersReffen
The big outdoor street-food market on the Refshaleøen waterfront — communal tables, craft beer and a good sunset.
Seasonal — check opening before making the trip outAlchemist
The fifty-course theatrical tasting menu in a Refshaleøen hangar. Saved on our map; well beyond a normal night out.
Noma
The restaurant that rewrote Nordic cooking, and the reason half the bakers in this guide can do what they do. We have not eaten here.
We have not eaten here · Booking is its own projectNordhavn 3 spots
Andersen & Maillard · Nordhavn
The Antwerpengade site, a minute from the Sandkaj harbour bath — the obvious coffee either side of a swim.
A minute from Sandkaj Harbour BathOriginal Coffee · Nordhavn
On Göteborg Plads by the water, and the other coffee option beside the Sandkaj baths.
A minute from Sandkaj Harbour Bath
2 photographsSandkaj Harbour BathWe have been here ourselves
HighlightSwimming under the UN City building, with sun-facing decks and two very good coffee shops a minute away.
Free and open to the public · Coffee at Andersen & Maillard or Original Coffee, both a minute away · The winter bathing club next door is members-onlyIslands Brygge & Amager 6 spots
GoBoat
Self-drive picnic boats on the canals, no licence needed. Bring food and drink aboard.
No licence needed · You can bring your own food and drinkCopenhagen Coffee Lab · Strandlodsvej
A speciality coffee bar out on Strandlodsvej in Amager, saved on our map.
Kasada
A pastry shop on Strandlodsvej, saved on our map.
Il Buco
A bakery on Njalsgade, saved on our map as a sister to La Banchina. Google now lists it as permanently closed.
Listed by Google as permanently closed
Islands Brygge Harbour BathWe have been here ourselves
HighlightThe best-known of the harbour baths: proper lanes, diving platforms, and the city skyline across the water. Free.
Free · Diving platforms and swimming lanes · Busiest at sunset · Check water quality on the KBH Havn appKastrup Sea Bath
The snail-shell timber structure out on the Amager coast — the most photographed swimming spot in the city.
On the Amager coast, out towards the airportKalvebod Brygge & Sydhavn 4 spots
Valbyparken
A large green park out in Valby with a quiet swimming spot, listed in our swimming guide as one of the calmer options.
3 photographsKalvebod BølgeWe have been here ourselves
HighlightThe wave-shaped boardwalk across the water from Islands Brygge, and where we actually swam most days.
Quieter than Islands Brygge · Coffee cart on the approach road · Loses the sun in the evening, so it gets cold fastFisketorvet Harbour Pool
An open-water swimming pool by Fisketorvet on Kalvebod Brygge, saved on our map.
Sluseholmen Harbour Bath
A modern harbour bath in the canal district of Sydhavn, on our list of other spots worth knowing about.
Nørrebro 19 spots
Jægersborggade
A single street of small cafés, bakeries and workshops, and about as hygge as an address gets. Worth walking down for its own sake.
Meyers Bageri and The Sixteen Twelve are both on itAssistens Cemetery
A historic cemetery that Nørrebro uses as a park — people stroll, cycle and picnic among the trees and gravestones.
One of the things we missedGrundtvig's Church
The extraordinary brick expressionist church out in Bispebjerg — an organ pipe the size of a cathedral. Saved on our map.
2 photographsAndersen & Maillard · NørrebroWe have been here ourselves
HighlightRoastery, bakery and café in one. Laptop-friendly, plenty of space, and a chocolate kouign-amann worth setting an alarm for.
Nørrebrogade 62 · Open daily 7am–7pm · Laptop-friendly · Go early for the croissants and the chocolate kouign-amannCoffee Collective · Sankt Hans Torv
The Nørrebro Coffee Collective, on the square at Sankt Hans Torv.
Darcy's Kaffe
A speciality coffee bar on Rantzausgade, saved on our map from a coffee book rather than from a visit.
Collective Bakery
A bakery and speciality coffee bar at the top of Nørrebrogade, saved on our map.
Meyers Bageri · Jægersborggade
Claus Meyer's bakery on Jægersborggade, recommended to us and saved for a return trip.
The Sixteen Twelve
Australian-style brunch on Jægersborggade, saved on our map.
PouletteWe have been here ourselves
A tiny fried chicken sandwich counter with a cult following. One of our favourite things we ate here.
Takeaway · A stop on the Bear tourBæst
Christian Puglisi's pizza and charcuterie restaurant on Guldbergsgade, with its own dairy. Saved on our map.
Mirabelle
The bakery and all-day restaurant next door to Bæst, saved on our map.
Villette
A walk-in wine bar on Fælledvej doing lunch — recommended to us for the confit duck and the gildas.
Walk-ins onlySAFARI
A neighbourhood restaurant on Baggesensgade, saved on our map.
Lago
A restaurant and wine bar on Korsgade by the Lakes, saved on our map.
Diamond Slice
A pizza slice shop on Blågårdsgade, saved on our map.
Flere Fugle
An Indian-influenced café and restaurant out on Rentemestervej in Nordvest, saved on our map.
BRUS
A microbrewery and taproom on Guldbergsgade, saved on our map.
Pompette
A wine bar and bottle shop on Møllegade, saved on our map.
Vesterbro & the Meatpacking District 17 spots
Folkehuset Absalon
A converted church running communal dinners at long tables, where you sit with whoever else turns up.
Communal seating — you eat with strangers, which is the pointTivoli Gardens
One of the oldest amusement parks in the world, and beloved. Honestly not our thing, so we skipped it.
One of the things we missed — by choice
2 photographsORSAWe have been here ourselves
HighlightRecords on the turntable, no laptops, and a motto they will not let us print in full. The cookie is very good too.
Vesterbrogade 46 · No laptops · Get the cookieProlog Coffee · Meatpacking District
The Kødbyen site of the roaster whose coffee HART pour. Saved on our map as a speciality stop.
HART Bageri · Meatpacking District
The HART site in Kødbyen, a few doors from Prolog. Saved on our map.
Rug Bakery
A bakery on Tietgensgade behind the station, saved on our map.
GRØD · Vesterbro
The Vesterbrogade branch of the porridge specialists.
Paté Paté
A wine bar and restaurant in a former pâté factory in Kødbyen, recommended to us as a cosy one.
Kødbyens Fiskebar
The seafood bar in the Meatpacking District, saved on our map for the oak-smoked fish.
Hija de Sanchez · Kødbyen
The original Hija de Sanchez taqueria, in the Meatpacking District. Saved on our map.
Sanchez
The sit-down Mexican restaurant on Istedgade from the same kitchen. Saved on our map.
Retour Vesterbro
A steak restaurant on Trommesalen, recommended to us and saved on our map.
Cofoco
The original restaurant of the group that also runs Høst, on Abel Cathrines Gade.
Gasoline Grill · Tivoli
The Gasoline Grill by Tivoli on Vesterbrogade.
Coco Hotel
A boutique hotel in Vesterbro that feels more like a friend's very stylish flat than a hotel. Our pick for an effortless city stay.
Mikkeller Bar
The original Mikkeller bar on Viktoriagade, saved on our map.
Lidkoeb
A cocktail bar down a courtyard off Vesterbrogade, with a fireplace upstairs. Saved on our map.
Frederiksberg 7 spots
Frederiksberg Gardens
The big landscaped park behind Frederiksberg Palace, with canals you can row on. Saved on our map.
Værnedamsvej
A short street of food shops and small bars on the Vesterbro–Frederiksberg boundary. Our note calls it simply a lovely street.
Prolog Coffee · Frederiksberg
Prolog on Marguerite Vibys Plads, saved on our map from a coffee book.
HART Bageri · Gammel Kongevej
The Frederiksberg HART, on Gammel Kongevej.
Sonny · Frederiksberg Allé
The second Sonny, on Frederiksberg Allé — same organic brunch, same excellent coffee.
Auren's Deli
A deli on Godthåbsvej recommended to us for breakfast, and saved on our map.
Bar Amore
An Italian bar on Gammel Kongevej, saved on a friend's recommendation.
Østerbro 7 spots
3 photographsJuno the BakeryWe have been here ourselves
HighlightThe cardamom roll. Expect a queue, join it, and get the apple Danish too if it is on.
Århusgade 48 · Tue–Sat 7.30am–6pm, Sun 8am–3pm, closed Monday · No indoor seating, filter coffee only · Pre-orders at shop@junothebakery.comProlog Coffee · Randersgade
The Østerbro Prolog, on Randersgade. Saved on our map.
April
April's Ryesgade café, from one of the city's well-regarded roasters. Saved on our map.
Original Coffee · Sortedam Dossering
The Original Coffee on the Lakes at Sortedam Dossering, saved on our map.
Aamanns Deli · Østerbro
The elevated smørrebrød people mean when they say the open sandwich has been taken seriously. Seasonal, local, and not cheap.
The restaurant version of smørrebrød, as opposed to the market version at TorvehallerneGeranium
Three Michelin stars, on the eighth floor above the national stadium. Saved on our map; we have not eaten here.
Svanemøllen Beach
A sandy beach inside the city limits, north of Nordhavn. One of the other swimming spots worth knowing about.
Day trips · North Zealand 5 spots
Jægersborg Dyrehave
The royal deer park north of the city, with a thousand-odd deer and a view across the water to Sweden.
Hornbæk Strand
A wide sandy beach on the north coast, saved on our map for the ice cream as much as the swimming.
Bellevue Beach
The Arne Jacobsen-designed beach at Klampenborg, 10km north. The train ride or the cycle out is part of it.
Louisiana Museum of Modern Art
The modern art museum on the coast at Humlebæk, in a sculpture park above the sea. The one we most regret missing.
About 35km north · Reachable by train · One of the things we missedKronborg Castle
Hamlet's Elsinore, on the narrowest point of the sound. Saved on our map as a day trip north.
At Helsingør, at the northern end of the coastal railwayFood to Try in Copenhagen
Wienerbrød
The Danish pastry, properly. Laminated dough, a great deal of butter, and nothing like the iced version sold abroad under the same name.
The cardamom roll
Juno's is the one people queue for, and it deserves the queue. Soft, heavily cardamomed, and gone by lunchtime.
The cardamom croissant
HART's own invention, and not a bun at all: croissant dough, melt-in-the-mouth, with a sticky cardamom twist through it.
Kanelsnegl
The cinnamon swirl — the everyday Danish pastry, and the one to judge a bakery by. Lille's is a must-try.
2 photographsBMO · bolle med smør og ost
A bread roll with butter and cheese. That is the entire dish, and it was one of the most surprisingly delicious things we ate here.
Rugbrød
Danish rye. Dense, dark, seeded and genuinely full of flavour — and the foundation everything else in this list is built on.
Smørrebrød
The open-faced sandwich: rye bread under cured meat, fish, cheese or pickles. Once a workers' lunch, now taken very seriously indeed.
2 photographsThe Danish breakfast plate
Sourdough, butter, a soft-boiled egg, local cheese and jam. Simple to the point of austerity, and completely dependent on the ingredients.
Danbo & Gammel Knas
The two Danish cheeses worth going out of your way for — a mild, springy Danbo and a hard, crystalline aged one.
Grød
Porridge, elevated to something you would order in a restaurant. Sweet or savoury, and as virtuous or as indulgent as you make it.
Pølser
The Danish hot dog, from a cart. A street-food institution long before street food was a phrase.